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Ingredients Info

Butters and Oils – Which One to Use and Why

THE BUTTERS

The type of butter you choose will determine what other ingredients you’ll want to use, If you choose cocoa butter, you’ll have a harder and less greasy product than if you choose to use refined Shea butter, Also consider the temperature- is it a summer or winter product and where on your body will you be using it. A rich butter is perfect for a heel balm but might be too greasy for your face, shea butter will probably be the most functional for all the butters, cocoa butter will bring more hardness to your products, and mango butter will be a good in-between butter that offers more dryness/less greasiness than the other two.

Shea butter

Shea butter is an excellent moisturizing agent that melts on contact with the skin, protects against water loss and outside weathering (sun, snow, rain and wind), and boosts the protective layer and barrier repair function of the skin. It hydrates, moisturizes, softens and smooths dry, dehydrated and damaged skin. It has very powerful anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which makes it a fantastic anti-aging ingredient, and a great treatment option for those with dry skin or eczema.

COCOA BUTTER
Cocoa butter is a healing powerhouse; the combination of strong antioxidants (including polyphenols) and saturated fats ensure that the skin is both detoxified and fully hydrated. Cocoa butter has a distinctive, natural scent very similar to that of chocolate, and helps “lock-in” moisture for long-term hydration. It’s a hard butter, so it’s useful for making your balms or salves harder, but it will still melt on contact with the skin. It’s great for dry or dehydrated skin, and also for sensitive or baby skin

MANGO BUTTER -Highly effective emollient and skin nutrient due to its unique softening properties and the high level of non-saponifiable. Ideal for dry, damaged, and aging skin. Mango butter has a high melting point – 34˚C to 38˚C – which means a bar made with this butter won’t melt on contact with your skin as easily as shea butter, mango butter offers far more drag (hard to spread on your skin) and can feel quite stiff when compared to shea butter. HINT: reduce the amount of beeswax when using mango butter in a bar formulation as it can get far too draggy .

THE WAXES

How much wax you’ll use will depend upon the type of butter you chose and the product you make. Cocoa butter is a harder butter, so you’ll use less beeswax (as low as 25%)if you making a lotion bar & more if you making a lip balm. Mango butter is in the middle, so you can use 28% to 33%. Shea butter will vary, but generally a 33% with refined shea butter because it’s so soft and works well. The goal is to keep the product solid when it is in its container or your hand, but to have to melt when it hits your skin. The beeswax will increase the melting point and drag on your skin, so you don’t want to use more than you need.

Beeswax

Beeswax is produced by bees. It has a soft and warm scent, and it is excellent at forming a protective layer on the skin, to keep it soft and supple. It gives hardness to lotion bars, lip balms and scrub bars, and it thickens emulsions, to make a more nourishing product.

THE OILS

Choose an oil that goes with your skin feel.

Fractionated coconut oil is a very light oil that feels non-greasy on our skin. It has great slip, glide, and spreadability also non-staining on fabrics and great as body oils.

Sunflower oil (not cooking oil) is a light oil that can feel very greasy on our skin. It too has great slip, glide, and spreadability. Sunflower oil is non-irritating and non-comedogenic, which means it will be absorbed by the skin easily and it won’t clog the pores. It’s rich in oleic acid – a fatty acid that is known as a natural moisturizer that can penetrate deep into the skin. It contains a very high percentage of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid also known as Vitamin F. This fatty acid plays an essential role in the formation of ceramides, one of the skin’s main moisturizing elements.

Wheat germ oil

Wheat germ oil is high Vitamin E content. It has rejuvenating, wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It’s especially suitable for loose skin that is showing first wrinkles or signs of premature skin aging. Some skin conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis can also benefit from wheat germ oil. It can be used in anhydrous products like facial oils, or in an emulsion

Argan oil

Argan oil is made from the kernels that grow on the argan trees native to Morocco. It’s an amazing oil for use in skincare as it protects from sun damage, because of its high antioxidant content. It moisturizes the skin and may be helpful for psoriasis and rosacea. It balances sebum production, so it can be beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin. It has anti-aging properties, improves wound healing, and soothes irritated itchy skin.

Avocado oil

A rich, long lasting and well absorbed oil. Nourishing, rich in vitamins especially E and D. Encourages skin cell regeneration therefore great for aging skin. Softening and prevents water loss.

Jojoba oil

Balancing, softening, soothing. Balances sebum production, so great for oily skin, acne or dry skin. Anti-inflammatory may be used to help eczema and psoriasis. Light and well absorbed.

Rosehip oil

A light, non-greasy oil that is quickly absorbed. Rosehip oil has significant anti-aging benefits due to it being packed with vitamins, antioxidants and fatty acids. It contains vitamins E, C, F and pro-vitamin A, which contribute to its antioxidant effect. The presence of vitamins C and A also stimulate collagen production in the skin, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles. The fatty acid Vitamin F works with Vitamin A to help improve overall skin tone and texture

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