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Gentle Moisturising Shaving Cream

Gentle Moisturising Shaving Cream

What goes in a gentle moisturising shaving cream?

  • Water – hydrates & softens the skin keeping it flexible, and also works as a solvent to activate the rest of the ingredients. Water is an essential component, this is why shaving soaps need to be mixed with water into a lather first in order to be effective.
  • Humectants – attract moisture to the surface of your skin providing a constant stream of hydration throughout the shaving process.
  • Surfactants – provide lather that acts as a cushion to protect your skin during shaving. Surfactants produce “foam” due to having both oil and water-loving properties, this reduces the contact between your skin and the razor.
  • Emollients – lubricate, condition, and soften the hair making it easier to remove. They’re essential, particularly for areas of dense, coarse hair that might otherwise catch the razor.

Why Use BTMS?

BTMS is a plant-based conditioning emulsifying wax made from Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl alcohol. Despite its name, “Behentrimonium Methosulfate” is actually derived from Rapeseed Oil. Moreover, unlike the arguably infamous anionic “sulphates”, BTMS is cationic and an incredible moisturiser and conditioner, that’s a popular ingredient in natural haircare products.

Typically emulsifying wax is mainly used to mix together the oil and water ingredients, whilst oils, butters and other emollients handle the “moisturising” elements of a product. However, BTMS has exceptional conditioning properties, helping with detangling, making hair more manageable and adding a glossy sheen to products.

How does BTMS work in shaving creams?

It’s common for homemade or DIY shaving cream recipes to focus on moisturising and foaming elements but not conditioning – which can lead to them not being as effective as their store-bought counterparts. The same reason why many prefer to shave with hair conditioners over soaps, is also why this one ingredient creates the best shaving experience.

Areas with coarse or thick hair are likely to catch, snag or tangle within the razor as you shave. This can make shaving more difficult and often result in going over the same area repeatedly to produce a smooth shave (generally something you want to avoid as it can lead to skin irritation). Conditioning the hair makes the follicle softer, more flexible and easier to cut, allowing you to shave more effectively and reduce the chance of skin irritation.

Gentle Moisturising Shaving Cream Recipe

Water Phase

  • 152g Water
  • 4g Glycerine
  • 12g Decyl Glucoside

Oil Phase

  • 12g Jojoba Oil
  • 10g BTMS-25
  • 10g Stearic Acid

Cool Down

  • 2g Preservative Eco
  • 2g Essential Oils (Optional)

Method

  1. Measure out the Water Phase ingredients: Water, Glycerine and Decyl Glucoside and the Oil Phase ingredients: BTMS, Jojoba Oil and Steric Alcohol
  2. Gently melt both phases in separate heat proof containers over a low heat using a double boiler or bain marie
  3. Once the oil and water phases have completely melted, mix together and transfer to a flat surface
  4. To create a light and airy emulsion, use an immersion blender or whisk. As the mixture cools and more air is incorporated, it will start to thicken and change to a pale cream colour
  5. When you are happy with the consistency, you can move on to adding the preservative and essential oils
  6. Use a scale to add the Cool Down ingredients: preservatives and essential oils of choice
  7. Give a short, quick mix either by hand or using a blender just to ensure all the ingredients are evenly distributed
  8. Store Shaving Cream in an airless pump bottle. This will help to prolong its shelf life

One Comment

  • Naelah

    I came across your website a few days ago & would like to say thank you , for sharing your
    extensive ingredient & product lnowlegde so kindly . Especially to those of us who are new to
    product formulation.

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